Herjofsnesin takki haudasta 63 on ehkä yleisimpiä elävöitysvaatteita, ja miksipäs ei. Oma versioni on hyvin vaatimaton, ulkonäöltään värjäämätöntä ruudullista villaa ja perustuu Medieval Garments Reconstructed -kirjan kaavoihin. En ole aiemmin tehnyt vaatteita jonkun muun kaavojen perusteella, siis ihan tarkasti katsoen että mitenkä tämän pitäisi mennä, vaan aika pitkälti katsonut että jaahas, noin, minulle pitää soveltaa näin ja näin. Nytkin katsoin lähinnä hihaan enemmän apua kirjan kaavasta.
The Herjofsnes 63 coat is probably one of the most recreated historical item of clothing, and why not. My version is very modest, checkered fabric of apparently undyed wool and made with help from Medieval Garments Reconstructed. It's the first time I've made something from an actual pattern, usually I just wing it, frequently with a fairly good success. This time I mainly looked at the pattern for help with the sleeve bits.
Bought the fabric from a friend's van, as she was selling her unnecessary things. I pinned the fabric on the thick carpet and figured out the body bits with the string. I wondered for a while whether to dye this fabric or not, but decided against it, mainly for lack of resources. So it's a rather un-fancy fabric, it's all right.
After the straight lines are marked with the string, it's easy to draw them on the fabric. Or just cut. The selvage edge (left) will be the front pieces, the middle ones sides, and the folded part (right) is the back. It looks short and narrow... it isn't. The lenght of the hem is about 170 cm and the coat reaches just below the knees.
The sleeve and its many bits. Toffo helps.
The sleeve, ready. I was a bit suspicious at times, but this worked really well and the fabric evened out nicely.
A whole bunch of buttons. The original had 15, mine has 24... I set the distances by the checkered fabric, if it was an even colour I'd have used a slightly longer distance between the buttons. Made the buttonholes with a sharp leather knife, much better than using scissors. The buttons have tiny scraps of the over and inner fabric inside. Aside from those the only leftover bit (aside from two short gores I ended up removing, as they made the coat look odd) of fabric is just enough for a small standing collar. Nice!
I had already sewn the side pieces to the front and back pieces when I bought the dark brown, thin and dense wool from Grunwald. Still, the lining settled nicely and the colour suits the other fabric. I'll be making a finishing tablet woven band for the collar or adding a standing collar to cover the little cuts in the inturned outer fabric.
Here it is, all ready and done. It's not the fastest to put on, and I wonder if I should get a warren's worth of rabbit furs and line it for proper winter wear. On the other hand, most of my medieval re-enacting is done on summer months, winter is mainly for Iron Age. And I have several wool tunics, anyway.